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WITHIN · FIELD GUIDE · Revised November 5, 2026

Shirt collar types, how a shirt should fit, and how to iron one

The collar sets how formal a shirt is, the shoulder decides whether it fits, and the iron decides whether anyone notices either.

The collar types

CollarWhat it looks likeWear it with
PointNarrow, 2.5 to 4 inches between the tipsA tie in a four in hand
SpreadWider, 3.5 to 8.5 inches between the tipsA half Windsor; suits and business
CutawayThe widest spread, points swept backA Windsor knot, or no tie
Button downPoints buttoned to the shirt frontOdd jackets, chinos, no tie
ClubRounded pointsA slim tie; Downton Abbey brought it back
TabPoint collar with a strip joined behind the tieA tie; it lifts the knot into an arc
Pinned or eyeletA bar through holes in each pointA tie; same arc as the tab
BandA short stand with no foldNo tie; casual shirts
WingSmall stand with tips folded outWhite tie and some black tie

The button down began on British sports shirts, polo among them, and it is still the least formal of the dress collars. For the knot that fills each collar, see how to tie a tie.

How a dress shirt should fit

WhereFitsToo bigToo small
ShoulderSeam on the edge of your shoulder boneSeam slides down the armSeam rides up; pulls across the back
CollarTwo fingers slide in when buttonedGaps under a tiePinches; the knot twists
ChestLies flat, buttons sit closedFabric billows when tuckedButtons pull into X shapes
SleeveCuff reaches the wrist boneCuff covers the handCuff rides up when you reach
LengthStays tucked when you raise your armsBunches at the waistbandPulls out when you sit

Shoulders and collars do not move; sleeves and the body can be taken in. What a tailor can change has the limits.

How to iron a shirt

Set the iron to the dots on the care label. ISO 3758, the care symbol standard, sets one dot at 110 °C, two at 150 °C and three at 200 °C; cotton and linen shirts usually carry three. Iron the shirt slightly damp, or use steam.

  1. Collar: underside first, from the tips in, then the top side.
  2. Cuffs: open them flat, inside then outside.
  3. Sleeves: lay each flat along the seam and iron from shoulder to cuff.
  4. Yoke: drape the shoulders over the narrow end of the board.
  5. Back: one long pass, then around the pleats.
  6. Fronts: the button side around the buttons, never over them, then the other side.
  7. Hang it on a hanger at once and do up the top button.

Non iron shirts have been around since Brooks Brothers introduced them in 1953. They are treated with a resin; a short tumble and hang does most of the work.

Shirts on within

Dress shirts, button downs and overshirts at the boutiques today, with their prices.

Common questions

What are the main types of shirt collar?
Point, spread (the widest called cutaway), button down, club, tab, pinned or eyelet, band and wing. Point collars measure 2.5 to 4 inches between the tips; spread collars 3.5 to 8.5.
Which collar is the most formal?
The wing collar, worn with white tie and some black tie shirts. For business, a spread or point collar with a tie. The button down is the least formal of the dress collars.
How should a dress shirt fit?
The shoulder seam sits on the edge of your shoulder and two fingers slide inside the buttoned collar. The cuff reaches the wrist bone. The body lies flat, without pulling at the buttons or billowing at the waist.
What temperature should I iron a shirt?
The one the care label's iron shows: one dot is up to 110 °C, two dots 150 °C, three dots 200 °C. Cotton and linen can take three dots when the label shows them.
In what order do you iron a shirt?
Collar, cuffs, sleeves, the yoke across the shoulders, the back, then the two fronts. Iron it slightly damp and hang it straight away.

Sources

Shirts in stock now, to check against this guide

Chrome Hearts, Les Deux, Kith and more, from the boutiques on within.