Yohji and Antwerp

Black wool gabardine, a shoulder that sits where the pattern put it rather than where you are, and a hem long enough that the coat keeps moving after you have stopped. Paris in 1981 for one half of this, and for the other half six graduates who drove to London in 1986 with a van of samples and no appointment. The clothes cut away from the body on purpose, which nobody in Paris was doing at the time.

What you will not enjoy: a great deal of this hides you, and it is possible to spend ten years inside a long black coat because the coat removes the need to decide anything else that morning. Some of what you call cut is drapery thrown over an unresolved question. The gabardine is also heavy, and the trousers were drawn for somebody taller than you, and you have been standing differently to compensate.

In its favour, this archive survives wear better than anything else here. Good gabardine from 1994 still hangs correctly, which is more than the sportswear can say. Buy old for the coats and the wide trousers, buy new for anything cut close to the body, and give the hem to somebody who has shortened one before.