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WITHIN · FIELD GUIDE · Revised November 5, 2026

How a suit should fit, and the trouser break

Buy the shoulders, pay a tailor for the rest. Seven checks in a fitting room mirror, in the order that matters.

The seven checks, in order

CheckFitsFixable by a tailor?
ShouldersSeam ends at your shoulder; sleeve hangs clean, no dent below the seamHardly: it means rebuilding the jacket
CollarLies against the shirt collar with no gap at the back of the neckYes: a collar can be lowered
Chest and buttonButtons closed with no X creases and no gap at the lapelsA little, within the cloth left in the seams
SleevesReach the wrist bone so some shirt cuff showsYes, unless the cuff buttons work
LengthCovers your seat; your fingertips reach about the hemOnly shorter, and only a little
Trouser waistStays up without a belt, no folds at the backYes: in easily, out by about an inch
Trouser lengthEnds in the break you wantYes, the easiest job in the shop

Most of these follow what a tailor can and cannot change. To read a jacket from a listing instead of a mirror, measure a blazer you own and compare.

The trouser break

BreakWhere the hem sitsLooks
No breakJust touches the top of the shoeClean and current; best on slim, tapered trousers
Slight, or quarterRests on the shoe with one small foldThe safe choice for most suits
Medium, or halfOne clear fold at the frontTraditional business
FullA deep fold all the way roundWide, older cuts; reads long on slim trousers

Take your shoes to the fitting. The break depends on the heel and the shoe's height, and a hem set over sneakers will be wrong over dress shoes.

Which buttons to fasten

On a single breasted jacket the bottom button is never fastened; the front is cut that way. On two buttons, do the top one. On three, the middle one, or the top two.

Double breasted jackets are kept buttoned. Undo a single breasted jacket when you sit down.

The cloth

Worsted wool is the everyday suiting: smooth, it keeps a crease, and it lasts. A Super number tells you how fine the fibre is; Super 100s is 18.75 microns or finer, and finer cloth creases and wears faster. Flannel is warmer and softer for winter, linen and cotton for summer. The wool guide has the whole Super table.

Checks before you pay

  • Wear the shirt and the shoes you will wear with it.
  • Reach forward and raise your arms. The collar should stay on your neck and the back should not pull.
  • Sit down in the trousers. If the seat pulls tight, go up a size and take in the waist.
  • Ask whether the cuff buttons work. Working buttonholes make shortening a sleeve a bigger job.
  • Check the inside of the waistband for spare cloth to let out.

Suits and blazers on within

Suits, blazers and trousers at the boutiques today, with their prices.

Common questions

How should a suit jacket fit in the shoulders?
The shoulder seam ends where your shoulder ends, and the sleeve hangs straight down from it without a dent below the seam. Shoulders are the one part a tailor cannot fix economically, so buy for them.
How long should suit sleeves be?
Long enough to reach the wrist bone with your arms at your sides, so a little shirt cuff shows below them.
What is a trouser break?
The fold where the trouser hem meets the shoe. With no break the hem just touches the shoe. A slight or quarter break makes one small fold, a half or medium break one clear fold, and a full break a deep fold all the way round.
Which buttons do you fasten on a suit jacket?
On a single breasted jacket the bottom button is left undone. On a two button jacket fasten the top one; on three, the middle one or the top two. A double breasted jacket is kept buttoned.
How should a blazer fit compared with a suit jacket?
The same at the shoulder, collar and sleeve. A blazer can be cut a little shorter and slimmer because it is worn with odd trousers and jeans.

Sources

Suits and blazers in stock now, to check against this guide

Giovanni Cavagna, Tiger of Sweden, RUOHAN and more, from the boutiques on within.

More Giovanni Cavagna on within