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WITHIN · FIELD GUIDE · Revised November 13, 2026

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake: pleats, sizing and care

Issey Miyake's pleated line for men, launched in 2013, is sewn first and pleated after, in a heat press. Here are the brand's own size chart and care steps, and the prices on within.

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Sewn first, pleated after

The common way to make pleated clothes is to pleat the cloth first, then cut and sew it. Issey Miyake does it the other way round and calls the method garment pleating. Miyake began working this way in 1988, and his studio gives the steps in this order.

StepWhat happens
1. Cut and sewThe whole piece is cut and sewn first, made bigger than its finished size to an exact measure
2. PaperThe sewn piece goes between layers of paper
3. Heat pressA heat press shrinks it to its finished size and sets the pleats and the shape at the same time

Homme Plissé uses the Pleats Please method, the studio says, with the thread and the fabric changed for men's clothes. The house says the result resists wrinkles, dries fast and weighs little. The Basic Pleated Jacket and the Basic Pleated Straight Leg Pants on within both list 100% polyester.

Because the pleats go in after the sewing, Issey Miyake says it cannot shorten sleeves or hems: a new hem would change the pleats. Buy the length you need.

Homme Plissé, Pleats Please and the main line

The house's own pages tell the three lines apart like this.

LineSinceForWhat it is
Issey Miyake1971Women, sizes 1 to 3The main line. Satoshi Kondo has directed it since spring summer 2020
Pleats Please Issey Miyake1993; first collection as its own brand for spring summer 1994Women, sizes 1 to 5Light, machine washable pleated clothes for every day, from the pleats Miyake first showed in 1988
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake2013Men, sizes 1 to 4Everyday men's clothes made with the same garment pleating

Homme Plissé grew out of costumes Miyake made for a show by the Aomori University men's rhythmic gymnastics team, in Tokyo in July 2013. The line first showed at the Centre Pompidou in Paris in 2019, and has shown twice a year since.

Issey Miyake died on 5 August 2022, aged 84. The house still sells all three lines under his name.

How Homme Plissé fits

Sizes are numbers, 1 to 4, not letters. The house's chart matches each number to your body, in centimetres.

SizeHeight (cm)Chest (cm)Waist (cm)Hips (cm)
1Up to 171887490
2172 to 177927894
3178 to 183968298
4184 to 18910086102

On the house's men's chart, the chest column is called “Bust”. The house adds that pleated pieces can vary slightly in size. The size converter has other brands' charts.

On 13 November 2026, 40 of the 76 pieces on within had a size 2 in stock, and 47 had a size 3.

How to wash Homme Plissé

These are Issey Miyake's care steps for its pleated pieces, Homme Plissé included.

  1. Read the label first. The house says each piece's own care steps are on it.
  2. Put the piece in a laundry net. Machine wash it cold, up to 30°C, on a short cycle, or wash it by hand, pressing lightly.
  3. Use a detergent with no fabric softener. Softener can soften the pleats and the shape.
  4. Spin it gently, or squeeze the water out.
  5. Lay the pleats straight, then hang it to dry in the shade, somewhere airy.
  6. Store it rolled up along the pleats. Don't leave it on a hanger for long, or the pleats change shape.

Never tumble dry, iron or steam it: the house says the pleats are not heat resistant. It also says not to dry clean it, wear it wet for long, or press on the pleats while they are stretched.

Issey Miyake recommends washing a pleated piece after every wear, to keep the pleats longer. It will not pleat a piece again for you.

Labels differ. The Wool-like Pleated Jacket on the shelf says to dry it flat and not to hang it.

What Homme Plissé costs

On 13 November 2026, within had 76 Homme Plissé pieces, all at WDLT117 in Toronto. The Basic Pleated Straight Leg Pants in black were CAD 660, in sizes 1 and 3. The Basic Pleated Jacket in light grey was CAD 1,300, in sizes 1 to 3.

The Homme Plissé price page gives the lowest, middle and highest price in each category, with the day it was counted.

Homme Plissé on within

Pleated pants, jackets and tops in stock now, each with its price and sizes.

Common questions

Do Homme Plissé pleats come out in the wash?
Issey Miyake recommends washing pleated pieces after every wear, and says that keeps the pleats longer. Wash them cold, up to 30°C, in a laundry net, with no fabric softener. The house says heat, softener and pressing on stretched pleats can change them.
Can you iron Homme Plissé?
No, Issey Miyake says never to iron or steam pleated pieces, because the pleats are not heat resistant. Hang it to dry with the pleats laid straight.
Can Homme Plissé go in the dryer?
No, the house says never to tumble dry pleated pieces. Spin them gently or squeeze out the water, lay the pleats straight and hang them to dry in the shade.
Does Homme Plissé run big?
Issey Miyake's pages do not say it runs big or small: they size it by a chart, 1 to 4, against height, chest, waist and hips in centimetres. Size 3 is for 178 to 183 cm tall with a 96 cm chest. The house adds that pleated pieces can vary slightly in size.
Is Homme Plissé warm?
Issey Miyake describes Homme Plissé as lightweight and quick to dry. For colder days, on 13 November 2026 the shelf had a Wool-like Pleated Jacket its listing calls warm and light, and a Duvet Jacket with polyester padding for warmth.
Can you hem Homme Plissé pants?
Issey Miyake says it cannot shorten pleated pieces and does not recommend it, because a new hem changes the pleats. They are pleated after they are sewn, so buy the length you need.

Sources

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake in stock now, to check against this guide

Homme Plisse Issey Miyake and Pleats Please Issey Miyake, from the boutiques on within.

More Homme Plisse Issey Miyake on within