Issey Miyake Pleats Please: what it is and what size to buy

Quick facts

• What it is: Issey Miyake's garment pleated line, its own brand since spring summer 1994
• Where it came from: the pleats shown in the 1988 women's collection
• Sizes: 1 to 5, set by height, from 150 to 175 cm
• The middle size: size 3, for 161 to 165 cm, bust 85 cm
• On the shelf, 9 November 2026: 20 pieces, CAD 425 to 1,150, median CAD 775

What is Issey Miyake Pleats Please?

Pleats Please is the line where the garment is sewn first and pleated after. Issey Miyake's own brand page calls it garment pleating. It grew out of the pleats in the 1988 women's collection and became its own brand from the spring summer 1994 season.

The house sells it on three practical points: it is light, it is easy to wear, and it can be washed in water. The listing for the cool grey midi dress I read gives the rest plainly, 100% polyester and made in Japan.

That is the whole appeal. A dress that looks sculpted and still goes in the wash.

The number on a Pleats Please label is a length, not a width.

What size am I in Pleats Please?

Pick your size by height. This is the house chart for the women's line, read on 9 November 2026:

• Size 1 is for 150 to 155 cm, bust 80 cm
• Size 2 is for 156 to 160 cm, bust 82 cm
• Size 3 is for 161 to 165 cm, bust 85 cm
• Size 4 is for 166 to 170 cm, bust 89 cm
• Size 5 is for 171 to 175 cm, bust 93 cm

The US chart says pleated items use "a unique size scale that is based on the garment length". Size 1 is the shortest and 5 the longest, with "only a minor change in the garment width between sizes". The UK guide adds that trousers and skirts sit at the natural waist, so choose by height and by where you want the hem to fall.

Issey Miyake's help page says tops usually come in sizes 3 and 4, bottoms in 1 to 5, and some sizes skip a fabric or a design. If you sit between two heights, I would size up on a skirt or trouser you want long, and stay put on a top.

Read the number, not the letter

The boutique listings print each Pleats Please size as a letter and a number together: M · 3, L · 4, XL · 5. The letter is the shop's shorthand. The number is the house size, and it answers to your height.

That matters for anyone who wears a small elsewhere. A size 5 marked XL is cut for 171 to 175 cm, so on a shorter frame it reads as a longer garment.

On 9 November 2026, counting every size each piece came in, 9 of the 20 pieces were offered in size 3. Three came in size 4, 9 in size 5 and 6 as one size. Nothing was offered in 1 or 2.

What to buy first

The full rail is on the Pleats Please shelf at WDLT117. Of the 20 pieces, seven were tops and shirts, four dresses, four skirts, two trousers, two shorts and one tee.

• The Basic Pleated Pullover in black, CAD 425 in size 5, is where the rail begins.
• The Mist Basic Top in white, CAD 480 in size 5.
• The Classic Pleated Midi-dress in greige, CAD 745 in sizes 4 and 5.
• The Fold-line Pleated Skirt in black, CAD 770 in size 3.
• The Thicker Pleated Flared Pants in beige, CAD 780 in sizes 4 and 5, and the Thicker Pleated Cocoon Pants in black, CAD 850 in size 3.
• The Pleated Midi-Dress in cool grey, CAD 1,040 in sizes 3, 4 and 5.
• The Playground Dress in purple, CAD 1,150, one size, is the top of the rail.

The pieces to start with are the black pullover and the black skirt. Both wear with everything already in the wardrobe, and the pleat does the work. The greige dress comes next, because a midi length is where the height scale decides how it falls.

The men's pleated line is a different chart. Homme Plissé starts at size 1 for 165 to 170 cm, and how it is pleated and washed is in the Homme Plissé note. For secondhand pleated pieces, see how to spot fake Homme Plissé, and for the wider house family see Japanese designer brands.

The short answer, if anyone asks

Pleats Please is Issey Miyake's pleated women's line, a brand of its own since spring summer 1994. Sizes run 1 to 5 by height, from 150 to 175 cm, and the number changes the length more than the width.

On 9 November 2026 one boutique listed 20 pieces from CAD 425 to 1,150, labelled M · 3, L · 4 and XL · 5. Choose by the number.

Common questions

What size am I in Pleats Please?

Go by height. Size 1 is 150 to 155 cm, size 3 is 161 to 165 cm and size 5 is 171 to 175 cm, on Issey Miyake's own chart.

Is Pleats Please the same as Homme Plissé?

No. Both are Issey Miyake pleated lines, but Pleats Please is the women's line and Homme Plissé is the men's, with its own chart starting at 165 to 170 cm.

Can you wash Pleats Please?

Issey Miyake's brand page says the garments can be washed in water. Follow the care label on the piece you buy.

Shelf counts and ranges refer to 9 November 2026. Linked product prices were rechecked that day; available sizes can change before checkout.

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