Sculptural dressing

Sculptural dressing builds an outfit around volume, sharp folds and pronounced structure rather than clinging to the natural line of the body. Black wool, crisp cotton and pleated textiles hold distinct angles that shift cleanly as you walk. Much of it comes from Issey Miyake, who sewed clothes far larger than their final size and then pressed them into pleats.

Homme Plisse Issey Miyake shapes heat set pleats into trousers that bounce and keep their form. Pleats Please Issey Miyake, launched in the nineties, makes light pleated pieces that are easy to wash and pack. UJOH, Mitsuru Nishizaki's label from Tokyo, builds its coats and suits on bold pattern cutting, while Rick Owens is known for dropped crotches and long, draped shapes.

Wide pants, structured jackets, flared skirts and clean shirts form the backbone of these outfits. Balance exaggerated shapes on top by pairing them with straight trousers and flat leather shoes. WDLT117 in Toronto carries nearly all of it, Utopia adds Rick Owens trousers, and Due West adds Masnada's tailoring from Italy.