Styles · An idea under Avant-garde

All black for women

Monochrome black dressing with rich texture play: wool, leather, cupro and coated canvas.

Dressing in all black builds an outfit from one colour, so cut and texture do the work that pattern would.

Mixing wool, leather, silk and cotton keeps the black from looking flat. Japanese designers who began showing in Paris in the early eighties made black their main colour, in loose, oversized and frayed clothes. Rick Owens, who started his label in Los Angeles in nineteen ninety four and has shown in Paris since two thousand three, is known for drape and bias cuts, and Pleats Please Issey Miyake, launched in nineteen ninety three, makes pieces that are pleated after they are sewn. Helmut Lang made its name in the nineties with a plain, utilitarian minimalism.

WDLT117 in Toronto brings black dresses from Coperni, RUOHAN, Avavav and Helmut Lang, and Undercover tailoring. Utopia in Toronto brings Rick Owens cargo pants in heavy faille.

Common questions

How do you wear an all black outfit without it looking flat?
Combine different fabric weights like heavy wool, stiff leather, and sheer silk within the same look. Varying the surface sheen lets light hit the dark tones in distinct ways.
Where does avant garde black dressing come from?
It goes back to Paris in the early eighties, when Japanese designers showed clothes that were mostly black, oversized and frayed. Later designers such as Rick Owens, known for drape and black, kept black at the centre of their work.
Which designers specialize in sculptural black pieces?
Rick Owens is known for drape, bias cuts and black. Helmut Lang is known for plain, utilitarian minimalism, and Pleats Please Issey Miyake makes pieces that are pleated after they are sewn.