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An edit

Sculptural dressing

Pleats, volume and shapes that move. Issey Miyake, UJOH, MM6, RUOHAN.

Sculptural dressing builds an outfit around volume, sharp folds and pronounced structure rather than clinging to the natural line of the body. Black wool, crisp cotton and pleated textiles hold distinct angles that shift cleanly as you walk. Much of it comes from Issey Miyake, who sewed clothes far larger than their final size and then pressed them into pleats.

Homme Plisse Issey Miyake shapes heat set pleats into trousers that bounce and keep their form. Pleats Please Issey Miyake, launched in the nineties, makes light pleated pieces that are easy to wash and pack. UJOH, Mitsuru Nishizaki's label from Tokyo, builds its coats and suits on bold pattern cutting, while Rick Owens is known for dropped crotches and long, draped shapes.

Wide pants, structured jackets, flared skirts and clean shirts form the backbone of these outfits. Balance exaggerated shapes on top by pairing them with straight trousers and flat leather shoes. WDLT117 in Toronto carries nearly all of it, Utopia adds Rick Owens trousers, and Due West adds Masnada's tailoring from Italy.

Song for the Mute Daisy Oversized Coat W Brown at WDLT117 on within
Song for the Mute
Daisy Oversized Coat W Brown
SEK 11,807
WDLT117
Sulvam Dolman Zip-up Jacket Bio in Blue at WDLT117 on within
Sulvam
Dolman Zip-up Jacket Bio
SEK 5,002SEK 11,620Last one
WDLT117
Rick Owens Edfu Bauhaus Cargo Pants Black, front view, at Utopia on within
Rick Owens
Edfu Bauhaus Cargo Pants Black
SEK 7,042Pre-owned
Utopia
Rick Owens FW16 Mastodon Drawstring Cargo Pants Black at Utopia on within
Rick Owens
FW16 Mastodon Drawstring Cargo Pants Black
SEK 3,521Pre-owned
Utopia
MM6 Maison Margiela Painted Denim Straight-leg Pants in Blue at WDLT117 on within
MM6 Maison Margiela
Painted Denim Straight-leg Pants
SEK 6,942
WDLT117
MM6 Maison Margiela 5 Pockets Wide-leg Jeans Blue, front view, at WDLT117 on within
MM6 Maison Margiela
5 Pockets Wide-leg Jeans Blue
SEK 7,120
WDLT117
Rick Owens Cargobelas Cargo Pants Black, front view, at Utopia on within
Rick Owens
Cargobelas Cargo Pants Black
SEK 5,634Pre-owned
Utopia
Rick Owens Stefan Cargo Pant Heavy Faille Black at Utopia on within
Rick Owens
Stefan Cargo Pant Heavy Faille Black
SEK 7,042
Utopia
Maison Margiela Painter Jeans Grey, front view, at Utopia on within
Maison Margiela
Painter Jeans Grey
SEK 3,521
Utopia
Avavav X Adidas Velvet Track Pants Dk. Blue, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Avavav
X Adidas Velvet Track Pants Dk. Blue
SEK 2,398
WDLT117
Song for the Mute SFTM x Birkenstock "The Collector" Tailored Jumpsuit Grey at WDLT117 on within
Song for the Mute
SFTM x Birkenstock "The Collector" Tailored Jumpsuit Grey
SEK 6,362SEK 13,345Last one
WDLT117
Song for the Mute SFTM x Birkenstock "The Gardener" Crochet Flower Jumpsuit Green at WDLT117 on within
Song for the Mute
SFTM x Birkenstock "The Gardener" Crochet Flower Jumpsuit Green
SEK 4,645SEK 9,120
WDLT117
MM6 Maison Margiela Tweed Blazer Black at WDLT117 on within
MM6 Maison Margiela
Tweed Blazer Black
SEK 16,423Last one
WDLT117
Sulvam Denim Short Jacket in Blue at WDLT117 on within
Sulvam
Denim Short Jacket
SEK 3,571SEK 9,507
WDLT117
Rick Owens DRKSHDW Hustler Double Layer L/S T-Shirt Black at Utopia on within
Rick Owens
DRKSHDW Hustler Double Layer L/S T-Shirt Black
SEK 2,817Lightly used
Utopia
Rick Owens DRKSHDW Level Oversized L/S T-Shirt Cream at Utopia on within
Rick Owens
DRKSHDW Level Oversized L/S T-Shirt Cream
SEK 2,817Lightly used
Utopia
MM6 Maison Margiela 2-in-1 Knit Cardigan Dark Grey, front view, at WDLT117 on within
MM6 Maison Margiela
2-in-1 Knit Cardigan Dark Grey
SEK 9,625Last one
WDLT117
Song for the Mute Relaxed-fit Sweater Brown at WDLT117 on within
Song for the Mute
Relaxed-fit Sweater Brown
SEK 5,689
WDLT117
Song for the Mute SFTM x Birkenstock "The Rebel" Zipped S/S Jumpsuit Black at WDLT117 on within
Song for the Mute
SFTM x Birkenstock "The Rebel" Zipped S/S Jumpsuit Black
SEK 4,287SEK 8,979Last one
WDLT117

Looks in this edit

After dark, before midnight. Flat lay of a black Masnada jacket, black trousers, a black Issey Miyake turtleneck and black Guidi derbies.After dark, before midnightA late supper in black. Flat lay of a black Undercover blazer, a black Rick Owens T-shirt, black cargo pants and black Guidi loafers.A late supper in blackAll black with a silver buckle. Flat lay of a black Masnada jacket, black trousers, a black Issey Miyake sweater and black Balenciaga sneakers.All black with a silver buckleBlack pleats and a gold cross. Flat lay of a black Issey Miyake jacket, a black T-shirt, black trousers and black Gucci slippers.Black pleats and a gold crossBlue fold lines in Kiyosumi. An adult woman wears cream and blue Pleats Please layers, black cocoon trousers and pale blue Guidi shoes in a Tokyo courtyard.Blue fold lines in KiyosumiThe pieces of A draped olive jacket and a rosette skirt on the plinthA draped olive jacket and a rosette skirt on the plinth

Common questions

What is sculptural dressing?
It is an approach to fashion that uses three dimensional tailoring, firm pleats and architectural volume to create standalone silhouettes.
How do you wear sculptural pieces every day?
Pair one dramatic piece, like a wide pleat trouser or cocoon coat, with clean, plain separates so the shape stays defined. Avoid fussy accessories that compete with the geometry of the cloth.
Which designers specialize in sculptural silhouettes?
Homme Plisse Issey Miyake develops heat pressed pleats that hold geometric forms, while UJOH builds coats and suits on bold pattern cutting.