An edit

Avant garde

Rick Owens, Margiela, Guidi, Undercover. Black, draped, cut differently.

Avant garde fashion uses architectural cuts and raw textures to build silhouettes that challenge traditional proportions. Heavy wool, washed linen, and distressed leather ground sculptural shapes in shades of black, grey, and cream. Its modern form began in Paris in the early eighties, when Yohji Yamamoto showed loose, mostly black clothes with raw edges.

Rick Owens is known for long draped shapes and dropped crotch trousers, while Guidi tans its own horse leather in Tuscany for soft boots. Undercover stitches graphics and street details into raw deconstructed jackets. Layered tops, relaxed trousers, and heavy outerwear balance these sculpted boots for daily wear.

WDLT117 in Toronto carries most of the wall, from Song for the Mute and UJOH tailoring to Guidi boots. Utopia in Toronto adds Rick Owens sneakers and trousers, some pre owned. Due West in Toronto adds Masnada's tailoring, made in Italy.

Undercover Felted Wool Long Jacket Black at WDLT117 on within

Felted Wool Long Jacket Black

HK$10,592Last one

Undercover Leather-belted Padded Jacket Black at WDLT117 on within

Leather-belted Padded Jacket Black

Rick Owens Hollywood Vintage Leather Sneaker Black Milk at Utopia on within

Hollywood Vintage Leather Sneaker Black Milk

HK$8,432Vintage

Guidi Classic Derby 792V Black, side view, at WDLT117 on within

Classic Derby 792V Black

HK$7,873Last one

Rick Owens Ramone Leather Sneakers Forest/Milk at Utopia on within

Ramone Leather Sneakers Forest/Milk

Guidi 310 Front Zip Boots Metallic Blue, side view, at WDLT117 on within

310 Front Zip Boots Metallic Blue

HK$5,605~~HK$12,310~~Last one

Sulvam Classic Bandage Pants in Black at WDLT117 on within

Classic Bandage Pants

HK$2,285~~HK$5,439~~

Song for the Mute TKL Denim Pant Black at WDLT117 on within

Song for the Mute

TKL Denim Pant Black

HK$4,460~~HK$9,132~~Last one

UJOH Front Pocket Work Pants Black at WDLT117 on within

Front Pocket Work Pants Black

HK$5,697Last one

MM6 Maison Margiela Painter Jeans Black at WDLT117 on within

MM6 Maison Margiela

Painter Jeans Black

HK$2,457~~HK$5,697~~

Masnada Seamed Mix Mohair Sweater in Black worn by a model, at Due West on within

Seamed Mix Mohair Sweater - Black

HK$2,074~~HK$3,907~~Last one

thom/krom MH177 Long Hidden Panel Shirt in Black at Due West on within

MH177 Long Hidden Panel Shirt - Black

HK$871~~HK$1,658~~

UJOH Pocket Long Sleeve Pullover Black, front view, at WDLT117 on within

Pocket Long Sleeve Pullover Black

HK$3,350Last one

Undercover Graphic Print Pullover Black, front view, at WDLT117 on within

Graphic Print Pullover Black

HK$1,712~~HK$3,035~~

Rick Owens Tower Jumbolaced Sneakers Black/Milk at Utopia on within

Tower Jumbolaced Sneakers Black/Milk

Grounds × Undercover Sneaker Black, side view, at WDLT117 on within

Grounds × Undercover Sneaker Black

Rick Owens Edfu Bauhaus Cargo Pants Black, front view, at Utopia on within

Edfu Bauhaus Cargo Pants Black

HK$5,621Pre-owned

Avavav Petra Suitpants Sharpei Black at WDLT117 on within

Petra Suitpants Sharpei Black

Pour Homme Paris Logo L/S T-Shirt Black

HK$562Pre-owned

Song for the Mute SFTM x Birkenstock "The Rebel" Distressed Tee Black, front view, at WDLT117 on within

Song for the Mute

SFTM x Birkenstock "The Rebel" Distressed Tee Black

MM6 Maison Margiela Tweed Blazer Black at WDLT117 on within

MM6 Maison Margiela

Tweed Blazer Black

HK$13,140Last one

Sulvam Dolman Zip-up Jacket Bio in Blue at WDLT117 on within

Dolman Zip-up Jacket Bio

HK$4,002~~HK$9,447~~Last one

Song for the Mute Daisy Oversized Coat W Brown at WDLT117 on within

Song for the Mute

Daisy Oversized Coat W Brown

Sulvam Slim Short Blouson Jacket Navy at WDLT117 on within

Slim Short Blouson Jacket Navy

HK$2,628~~HK$6,584~~

Looks in this edit

The pieces of A silver parachute jacket on a concrete stair

A silver parachute jacket on a concrete stair

After dark, before midnight. Flat lay of a black Masnada jacket, black trousers, a black Issey Miyake turtleneck and black Guidi derbies.

After dark, before midnight

A hotel bar, late. Flat lay of a beige MM6 jacket, a chocolate UJOH shirt, beige trousers, black Guidi boots and a Tom Wood ring.

A hotel bar, late

A late supper in black. Flat lay of a black Undercover blazer, a black Rick Owens T-shirt, black cargo pants and black Guidi loafers.

A late supper in black

October on the Canal Saint-Martin. Flat lay of a sand UJOH blouson, a brown sweater, blue MM6 jeans and milk Rick Owens sneakers.

October on the Canal Saint-Martin

Chocolate and navy for a village dinner. A faceless display mannequin in a New York showroom. A brown UJOH pinstripe shirt sits above navy trousers with silver snaps and Guidi shoes with metal heels.

Chocolate and navy for a village dinner

Common questions

What defines avant garde clothing?

Avant garde clothing rejects standard tailoring rules through asymmetrical hems, oversized cuts, and raw seam finishes. On this wall that means cotton, wool and leather in black, grey and cream.

How do you wear avant garde pieces every day?

Pair one sculptural piece with simple foundation clothes like straight denim or a clean cotton knit. Grounding an exaggerated coat with flat leather boots keeps the silhouette balanced and wearable.

Which designers lead avant garde fashion?

Rick Owens crafts elongated leather jackets and dropped crotch trousers in dark tones. Undercover merges punk references with structured outerwear, while Guidi dyes its horse leather boots after they are made, so each pair takes its colour evenly.