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An edit

Emerging designers

Emerging designers: Marine Serre, Wales Bonner, Coperni, Ottolinger and more.

Emerging designers make original clothes that challenge traditional tailoring through sculptural cuts, deconstructed shapes, and fresh fabric choices for women and men. Pieces balance deconstructed wool trousers and tailored leather jackets against relaxed cotton tops in a palette of black, cream, and brown. Many are still run by the people who started them, in cities from Paris to London and New York.

Coperni, started in Paris by Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, sprayed a dress onto Bella Hadid on its runway. Marine Serre makes much of each collection from old fabrics and is known for her crescent moon print. Who Decides War, from New York, is known for embellished denim with stained glass motifs.

Tailored pants, boxy cotton shirts, and ribbed knitwear anchor the silhouette, paired with heavy leather outerwear or casual denim. WDLT117 in Toronto carries Coperni, Marine Serre and Avavav, Due West has Adidas x Wales Bonner and Adidas x Willy Chavarria, and Utopia adds Who Decides War.

Coperni Asymmetric Flower Gown Black at WDLT117 on within
Coperni
Asymmetric Flower Gown Black
MX$6,731MX$13,400Last one
Ottolinger Liberated Double Shirt Dress White, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Ottolinger
Liberated Double Shirt Dress White
MX$9,023MX$15,500Last one
Avavav Disa Draped Dress Black worn by a model, at WDLT117 on within
Avavav
Disa Draped Dress Black
MX$8,079MX$14,500
Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY Merge Hug Dress In Blue Stripe, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY
Merge Hug Dress In Blue Stripe
MX$6,731MX$11,900
Nina Ricci Knit Sweater Grey at WDLT117 on within
Nina Ricci
Knit Sweater Grey
MX$11,900MX$22,900Last one
Avavav Cherie Button-up Cardigan White, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Avavav
Cherie Button-up Cardigan White
MX$6,002
Coperni Spiral Denim Pants Blue, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Coperni
Spiral Denim Pants Blue
MX$14,800
Marine Serre Denim Barrel Jeans L.Blue, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Marine Serre
Denim Barrel Jeans L.Blue
MX$12,900Last one
Nina Ricci Bow-detail Flared Trousers Black, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Nina Ricci
Bow-detail Flared Trousers Black
MX$21,300Last one
Litkovska Ruffled Midi Skirt Black at WDLT117 on within
Litkovska
Ruffled Midi Skirt Black
MX$15,800Last one
Ottolinger Liberated Double Jacket Green, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Ottolinger
Liberated Double Jacket Green
MX$19,200Last one
Patou Tailored Short Jacket Praline in Brown at WDLT117 on within
Patou
Tailored Short Jacket Praline
MX$12,100MX$25,300Last one
Sies Marjan Harper Pinstripe Coat in Navy at WDLT117 on within
Sies Marjan
Harper Pinstripe Coat
MX$10,800MX$53,900Last one
Yume Yume Nylon Zip-up Coat Black at WDLT117 on within
Yume Yume
Nylon Zip-up Coat Black
MX$6,461MX$12,700
Who Decides War Ember Chapel Crewneck Sweater Black at Utopia on within
Who Decides War
Ember Chapel Crewneck Sweater Black
MX$6,744
Piet F.C. Scarf Hoodie in Black at Due West on within
Piet
F.C. Scarf Hoodie - Black
MX$7,944MX$10,700
Marine Serre Scout Patches Crewneck T-Shirt Blue, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Marine Serre
Scout Patches Crewneck T-Shirt Blue
MX$4,033MX$5,328
Kody Phillips Polo Mesh in Black, front view, at Due West on within
Kody Phillips
Polo Mesh - Black
MX$2,495MX$4,653Last one
Coperni Technical Tailored Car Coat Green at WDLT117 on within
Coperni
Technical Tailored Car Coat Green
MX$20,200Last one
Litkovska Wool-Blend Tailored Vest Black, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Litkovska
Wool-Blend Tailored Vest Black
MX$14,800Last one
Sies Marjan Drew Harness Gown in Gold at WDLT117 on within
Sies Marjan
Drew Harness Gown
MX$13,500MX$40,400
Patou 3D JP Cotton Dress White at WDLT117 on within
Patou
3D JP Cotton Dress White
MX$4,033MX$17,500Last one
Ottolinger Glazed Baggy Jeans Black worn by a model, at WDLT117 on within
Ottolinger
Glazed Baggy Jeans Black
MX$9,833MX$15,600Last one
Patou Long Volume Skirt White, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Patou
Long Volume Skirt White
MX$6,731MX$17,500Last one

Looks in this edit

The pieces of Green tailoring by a Bloomsbury squareGreen tailoring by a Bloomsbury squareA holiday party in Brooklyn. Flat lay of a grey Nina Ricci sweater, a grey skirt, grey MM6 ankle boots and a pink Coperni crossbody bag.A holiday party in BrooklynPraline and brown near Marylebone. An adult woman wears a praline Patou jacket, parchment cross front top and brown pleated skirt with white Guidi boots near a London stone entrance.Praline and brown near MaryleboneSpiral denim and a pink heart in Shibuya. An adult woman wears a charcoal Avavav graphic tee, blue Coperni spiral jeans and silver Veja trainers while holding a pink heart bag in Tokyo.Spiral denim and a pink heart in ShibuyaAn adult woman wears red cutouts and folded denim at a noho studio in New York.Red cutouts and folded denim at a Noho studioThe pieces of A draped olive jacket and a rosette skirt on the plinthA draped olive jacket and a rosette skirt on the plinth

Common questions

What defines emerging designers?
They are young labels, most still run by the people who started them, each with its own way of cutting. On this wall that means Coperni, Marine Serre, Avavav and Ottolinger.
How should emerging designer pieces be styled?
Ground dramatic cuts by matching a sculptural piece with understated classics like relaxed black trousers or a plain white shirt. Structured outerwear pairs naturally over soft knitwear, keeping the focus on contrasting textures and clean lines.
Which emerging designers lead modern fashion?
Start with Avavav, Who Decides War, Coperni and Ottolinger. Who Decides War comes from New York and Coperni from Paris.