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An edit

Emerging designers

Emerging designers: Marine Serre, Wales Bonner, Coperni, Ottolinger and more.

Emerging designers make original clothes that challenge traditional tailoring through sculptural cuts, deconstructed shapes, and fresh fabric choices for women and men. Pieces balance deconstructed wool trousers and tailored leather jackets against relaxed cotton tops in a palette of black, cream, and brown. Many are still run by the people who started them, in cities from Paris to London and New York.

Coperni, started in Paris by Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, sprayed a dress onto Bella Hadid on its runway. Marine Serre makes much of each collection from old fabrics and is known for her crescent moon print. Who Decides War, from New York, is known for embellished denim with stained glass motifs.

Tailored pants, boxy cotton shirts, and ribbed knitwear anchor the silhouette, paired with heavy leather outerwear or casual denim. WDLT117 in Toronto carries Coperni, Marine Serre and Avavav, Due West has Adidas x Wales Bonner and Adidas x Willy Chavarria, and Utopia adds Who Decides War.

Coperni Asymmetric Flower Gown Black at WDLT117 on within
Coperni
Asymmetric Flower Gown Black
HK$2,860HK$5,703Last one
WDLT117
Ottolinger Liberated Double Shirt Dress White, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Ottolinger
Liberated Double Shirt Dress White
HK$3,834HK$6,591Last one
WDLT117
Avavav Disa Draped Dress Black worn by a model, at WDLT117 on within
Avavav
Disa Draped Dress Black
HK$3,433HK$6,161
WDLT117
Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY Merge Hug Dress In Blue Stripe, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY
Merge Hug Dress In Blue Stripe
HK$2,860HK$5,072
WDLT117
Nina Ricci Knit Sweater Grey at WDLT117 on within
Nina Ricci
Knit Sweater Grey
HK$5,038HK$9,714Last one
WDLT117
Avavav Cherie Button-up Cardigan White, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Avavav
Cherie Button-up Cardigan White
HK$2,551
WDLT117
Coperni Spiral Denim Pants Blue, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Coperni
Spiral Denim Pants Blue
HK$6,276
WDLT117
Marine Serre Denim Barrel Jeans L.Blue, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Marine Serre
Denim Barrel Jeans L.Blue
HK$5,502Last one
WDLT117
Nina Ricci Bow-detail Flared Trousers Black, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Nina Ricci
Bow-detail Flared Trousers Black
HK$9,055Last one
WDLT117
Litkovska Ruffled Midi Skirt Black at WDLT117 on within
Litkovska
Ruffled Midi Skirt Black
HK$6,706Last one
WDLT117
Ottolinger Liberated Double Jacket Green, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Ottolinger
Liberated Double Jacket Green
HK$8,138Last one
WDLT117
Patou Tailored Short Jacket Praline in Brown at WDLT117 on within
Patou
Tailored Short Jacket Praline
HK$5,153HK$10,746Last one
WDLT117
Sies Marjan Harper Pinstripe Coat in Navy at WDLT117 on within
Sies Marjan
Harper Pinstripe Coat
HK$4,579HK$22,895Last one
WDLT117
Yume Yume Nylon Zip-up Coat Black at WDLT117 on within
Yume Yume
Nylon Zip-up Coat Black
HK$2,746HK$5,416
WDLT117
Who Decides War Ember Chapel Crewneck Sweater Black at Utopia on within
Who Decides War
Ember Chapel Crewneck Sweater Black
HK$2,811
Utopia
Piet F.C. Scarf Hoodie in Black at Due West on within
Piet
F.C. Scarf Hoodie - Black
HK$3,311HK$4,469
Due West
Marine Serre Scout Patches Crewneck T-Shirt Blue, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Marine Serre
Scout Patches Crewneck T-Shirt Blue
HK$1,714HK$2,264
WDLT117
Kody Phillips Polo Mesh in Black, front view, at Due West on within
Kody Phillips
Polo Mesh - Black
HK$1,040HK$1,939Last one
Due West
Coperni Technical Tailored Car Coat Green at WDLT117 on within
Coperni
Technical Tailored Car Coat Green
HK$8,568Last one
WDLT117
Litkovska Wool-Blend Tailored Vest Black, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Litkovska
Wool-Blend Tailored Vest Black
HK$6,304Last one
WDLT117
Sies Marjan Drew Harness Gown in Gold at WDLT117 on within
Sies Marjan
Drew Harness Gown
HK$5,726HK$17,165
WDLT117
Patou 3D JP Cotton Dress White at WDLT117 on within
Patou
3D JP Cotton Dress White
HK$1,714HK$7,422Last one
WDLT117
Ottolinger Glazed Baggy Jeans Black worn by a model, at WDLT117 on within
Ottolinger
Glazed Baggy Jeans Black
HK$4,178HK$6,648Last one
WDLT117
Patou Long Volume Skirt White, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Patou
Long Volume Skirt White
HK$2,860HK$7,422Last one
WDLT117

Looks in this edit

The pieces of Green tailoring by a Bloomsbury squareGreen tailoring by a Bloomsbury squareA holiday party in Brooklyn. Flat lay of a grey Nina Ricci sweater, a grey skirt, grey MM6 ankle boots and a pink Coperni crossbody bag.A holiday party in BrooklynPraline and brown near Marylebone. An adult woman wears a praline Patou jacket, parchment cross front top and brown pleated skirt with white Guidi boots near a London stone entrance.Praline and brown near MaryleboneSpiral denim and a pink heart in Shibuya. An adult woman wears a charcoal Avavav graphic tee, blue Coperni spiral jeans and silver Veja trainers while holding a pink heart bag in Tokyo.Spiral denim and a pink heart in ShibuyaAn adult woman wears red cutouts and folded denim at a noho studio in New York.Red cutouts and folded denim at a Noho studioThe pieces of A draped olive jacket and a rosette skirt on the plinthA draped olive jacket and a rosette skirt on the plinth

Common questions

What defines emerging designers?
They are young labels, most still run by the people who started them, each with its own way of cutting. On this wall that means Coperni, Marine Serre, Avavav and Ottolinger.
How should emerging designer pieces be styled?
Ground dramatic cuts by matching a sculptural piece with understated classics like relaxed black trousers or a plain white shirt. Structured outerwear pairs naturally over soft knitwear, keeping the focus on contrasting textures and clean lines.
Which emerging designers lead modern fashion?
Start with Avavav, Who Decides War, Coperni and Ottolinger. Who Decides War comes from New York and Coperni from Paris.