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An edit

Emerging designers

Emerging designers: Marine Serre, Wales Bonner, Coperni, Ottolinger and more.

Emerging designers make original clothes that challenge traditional tailoring through sculptural cuts, deconstructed shapes, and fresh fabric choices for women and men. Pieces balance deconstructed wool trousers and tailored leather jackets against relaxed cotton tops in a palette of black, cream, and brown. Many are still run by the people who started them, in cities from Paris to London and New York.

Coperni, started in Paris by Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, sprayed a dress onto Bella Hadid on its runway. Marine Serre makes much of each collection from old fabrics and is known for her crescent moon print. Who Decides War, from New York, is known for embellished denim with stained glass motifs.

Tailored pants, boxy cotton shirts, and ribbed knitwear anchor the silhouette, paired with heavy leather outerwear or casual denim. WDLT117 in Toronto carries Coperni, Marine Serre and Avavav, Due West has Adidas x Wales Bonner and Adidas x Willy Chavarria, and Utopia adds Who Decides War.

Wales Bonner x Adidas Gazelle Pony Brown, side view, at WDLT117 on within
Wales Bonner
x Adidas Gazelle Pony Brown
HK$1,488
WDLT117
adidas x Wales Bonner Millennium Samba Sneakers - St Fade Gold / St Fade Gold / Collegiate Navy at Due West on within
Adidas x Wales Bonner
Millennium Samba Sneakers - St Fade Gold / St Fade Gold / Collegiate Navy
HK$984HK$1,827
Due West
Avavav X Adidas Modified Superstar - Carbon/Grey Five, side view, at WDLT117 on within
Avavav
X Adidas Modified Superstar - Carbon/Grey Five
HK$1,712HK$2,433
WDLT117
Yume Yume Finger-flop Black, side view, at WDLT117 on within
Yume Yume
Finger-flop Black
HK$1,139HK$1,860Last one
WDLT117
Who Decides War Ember Chapel Crewneck Sweater Black at Utopia on within
Who Decides War
Ember Chapel Crewneck Sweater Black
HK$2,811
Utopia
Piet F.C. Scarf Hoodie in Black at Due West on within
Piet
F.C. Scarf Hoodie - Black
HK$3,311HK$4,469
Due West
Kijima Takayuki Stud Detail Fedora Olive Green at WDLT117 on within
Kijima Takayuki
Stud Detail Fedora Olive Green
HK$2,742HK$5,122
WDLT117
Coperni C-logo Cap Grey at WDLT117 on within
Coperni
C-logo Cap Grey
HK$2,261
WDLT117
Marine Serre Moon Printed Athleisure Visor White at WDLT117 on within
Marine Serre
Moon Printed Athleisure Visor White
HK$1,689
WDLT117
Avavav X Adidas Slashed Cap Night Marine in Blue at WDLT117 on within
Avavav
X Adidas Slashed Cap Night Marine
HK$1,059Last one
WDLT117
Marine Serre Scout Patches Crewneck T-Shirt Blue, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Marine Serre
Scout Patches Crewneck T-Shirt Blue
HK$1,712HK$2,261
WDLT117
Who Decides War Moon Jersey T-Shirt Black at Utopia on within
Who Decides War
Moon Jersey T-Shirt Black
HK$1,686
Utopia
Piet Double LS Tee in Black at Due West on within
Piet
Double LS Tee - Black
HK$1,006HK$1,883
Due West
Kody Phillips Polo Mesh in Black, front view, at Due West on within
Kody Phillips
Polo Mesh - Black
HK$1,040HK$1,939Last one
Due West
Stolen Girlfriends Club Claw Ring - Silver/Onyx at Due West on within
Stolen Girlfriends Club
Claw Ring - Silver/Onyx
HK$1,967
Due West
Stolen Girlfriends Club Baby Claw Eternity Ring - Onyx in Silver at Due West on within
Stolen Girlfriends Club
Baby Claw Eternity Ring - Onyx
HK$2,136
Due West
Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY Late To Work Jacket Beige at WDLT117 on within
Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY
Late To Work Jacket Beige
HK$9,271Last one
WDLT117
Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY Smart Cropped Vest Brown, front view, at WDLT117 on within
Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY
Smart Cropped Vest Brown
HK$5,122Last one
WDLT117
Molebo M2413/25 Belt in Black at Due West on within
Molebo
M2413/25 Belt - Black
HK$1,096
Due West
Kijima Takayuki Rippled Tulip Hat Beige at WDLT117 on within
Kijima Takayuki
Rippled Tulip Hat Beige
HK$968HK$2,032Last one
WDLT117
Avavav Tim OS Shoulderless Hoodie With Lined Cut-out Application Beige at WDLT117 on within
Avavav
Tim OS Shoulderless Hoodie With Lined Cut-out Application Beige
HK$4,293
WDLT117
Who Decides War Blue Gathered Jeans, front view, at Utopia on within
Who Decides War
Blue Gathered Jeans
HK$2,530Pre-owned
Utopia
Avavav X Adidas Moonrubber Core Blk/Utility in Black at WDLT117 on within
Avavav
X Adidas Moonrubber Core Blk/Utility
HK$1,712HK$2,833
WDLT117
Who Decides War Cathedral Vest Coal at Utopia on within
Who Decides War
Cathedral Vest Coal
HK$1,686Pre-owned
Utopia

Looks in this edit

The pieces of Green tailoring by a Bloomsbury squareGreen tailoring by a Bloomsbury squareA holiday party in Brooklyn. Flat lay of a grey Nina Ricci sweater, a grey skirt, grey MM6 ankle boots and a pink Coperni crossbody bag.A holiday party in BrooklynPraline and brown near Marylebone. An adult woman wears a praline Patou jacket, parchment cross front top and brown pleated skirt with white Guidi boots near a London stone entrance.Praline and brown near MaryleboneSpiral denim and a pink heart in Shibuya. An adult woman wears a charcoal Avavav graphic tee, blue Coperni spiral jeans and silver Veja trainers while holding a pink heart bag in Tokyo.Spiral denim and a pink heart in ShibuyaAn adult woman wears red cutouts and folded denim at a noho studio in New York.Red cutouts and folded denim at a Noho studioThe pieces of A draped olive jacket and a rosette skirt on the plinthA draped olive jacket and a rosette skirt on the plinth

Common questions

What defines emerging designers?
They are young labels, most still run by the people who started them, each with its own way of cutting. On this wall that means Coperni, Marine Serre, Avavav and Ottolinger.
How should emerging designer pieces be styled?
Ground dramatic cuts by matching a sculptural piece with understated classics like relaxed black trousers or a plain white shirt. Structured outerwear pairs naturally over soft knitwear, keeping the focus on contrasting textures and clean lines.
Which emerging designers lead modern fashion?
Start with Avavav, Who Decides War, Coperni and Ottolinger. Who Decides War comes from New York and Coperni from Paris.