Emerging designers

Emerging designers make original clothes that challenge traditional tailoring through sculptural cuts, deconstructed shapes, and fresh fabric choices for women and men. Pieces balance deconstructed wool trousers and tailored leather jackets against relaxed cotton tops in a palette of black, cream, and brown. Many are still run by the people who started them, in cities from Paris to London and New York.

Coperni, started in Paris by Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, sprayed a dress onto Bella Hadid on its runway. Marine Serre makes much of each collection from old fabrics and is known for her crescent moon print. Who Decides War, from New York, is known for embellished denim with stained glass motifs.

Tailored pants, boxy cotton shirts, and ribbed knitwear anchor the silhouette, paired with heavy leather outerwear or casual denim. WDLT117 in Toronto carries Coperni, Marine Serre and Avavav, Due West has Adidas x Wales Bonner and Adidas x Willy Chavarria, and Utopia adds Who Decides War.